Rome-ing across the Malabar: Journey of long pepper across Indo-Roman trade routes

The Coveted Spice: Piper longum

Sailing across the vast expanse of the Red Sea were ships bearing goods from lands afar; amongst those, lay a unique, coveted spice that was no stranger to the inhabitants of the West: long pepper. With its distinctive taste and aromatic qualities, it formed an unexpected, yet lingering connection between the farmers in India and the elites of the Roman empire.

Nearly 4,000 years ago, prior to the establishment of the Indo-Roman trade route, members of the pepper family — black pepper (Piper nigrum) and long pepper (Piper longum or colloquially 'Pippali') — had secured their place in the food and medicine of ancient India. While similar to its close cousin, long pepper packs a spicy punch but with relatively more complex and earthy undertones.

Ancient Indian Ayurvedic texts such as Caraka Samhita, Susruta Samhita, and Astanga Hrdayam note the use of this spice in herbal remedies targeted to cure a variety of ailments. The proposed benefits have eased their way into traditional recipes, an example being kandathippilli rasam, a herbal soup made with the root of long pepper that helps alleviate cough, cold and gastric issues.

From the Forests of Assam to the Shores of Kerala

Indigenous to the tropical forests of Assam, West Bengal, and Meghalaya, long pepper was introduced to Kerala sometime in the era of early antiquity. Dubbed the 'Land of Spices', Kerala offers a nearly perfect blend of climatic conditions for the spice to thrive.

As people discovered its amazing health benefits, the demand for this spice started to grow locally. But since it was tricky to cultivate in non-native soil — and had a bold, unique taste — it quickly became a sought-after export. Before long, the magic of long pepper made its way across distant lands, winning hearts all the way to Rome.

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The Ancient Indo-Roman Sea Routes

With the advent of established trade routes, the port of Muziris, located along the Malabar region of Kerala, rose to prominence as a hub of commercial trade in the Indian subcontinent. The ideal location of the port at Alazapuzha river made it convenient for local and foreign traders alike. Ancient documents such as the Muziris Papyrus provide an account of the extent of Indo-Roman trade involving ivory, nard, tortoise shell and, you guessed it, long pepper.

The fragmented script details the cargo aboard the Roman ship, Hermapollon, with black pepper constituting over two-thirds of the ship's carrying capacity! There are also several mentions of the pepper trade in Tamil Sangam literature (early 1st century) citing the presence of Roman vessels carrying gold to be exchanged with pepper — a piece of crucial evidence underlining the significance of the spice.

Long Pepper in Roman Kitchens and Medicine

The earliest reports of black pepper in the Roman diet date back to 30 B.C.E. and the extent of its inclusion is reflected in the fifth century cookbook — De re culinaria (or Apicius) — wherein pepper features as a key ingredient in nearly 75% of the cited recipes. Despite the fact that black pepper was the most abundantly exported from the pepper family, long pepper held its own amongst the Roman elites.

Some dishes that Apicius recommends the use of long pepper include:

• Patina di Piris — Patina of Pears
• Honey Glazed Mushrooms
• Roman pepper stuffed dates

Max Miller, one of my favorite contemporary cooks has an excellent section of recipes from Apicius here.

The Price of Luxury

The medicinal use of long pepper is highlighted in De Medicina of Celsus, which recites emollient recipes containing long pepper. Long pepper was also pricier in comparison to the other pepper counterparts. As per Naturalis Historia, a work attributed to the Roman author and naturalist Pliny the Elder, long pepper cost nearly 3 times more than black pepper and twice as much as white pepper.

Pliny was perplexed with the seemingly insatiable demand for the pungent spice and bemoaned the vast sums of money the Roman Empire spent on its spice addiction. The likeliness to develop mold across the long sea travels contributed to the rarity of long pepper. The price of long pepper, influenced by its scarcity, sufficiently elevated its status to one of a luxurious commodity and intertwined with the lives of the affluent classes of Romans. While the port of Muziris is famously associated with spice trade, some theories suggest the involvement of northwestern ports in the transport of long pepper across seas.

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Long Pepper vs. Black Pepper: How Do They Compare?

Both spices belong to the Piperaceae family and share the compound piperine, which gives them their characteristic heat. But the similarities end at the surface.

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The Sustaining Mark of Long Pepper Trade

With its conical fruit and coiling vines, long pepper might seem like another plant today. Yet, centuries ago, it fuelled more than merely adding spice to one's meal; its trade highlighted the rich and flourishing economic and cultural exchange. The exclusivity of the spice reinforced the social strata as it evolved as a status symbol.

From the farms in India to the markets of Rome, long pepper found a way to bind two ancient civilizations through its aroma and taste. Through its influence at multiple levels, it played a role in shaping the societies and global trade as we know them today.

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Reshma Menon

Reshma Menon is a PhD student in Biology. She is a Researcher by day and often by night; a full-time juggler of dad jokes, aspiring scientist with a mild case of book addiction.

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