Journey to Uji: Discovering the Heart of Matcha and Hojicha

Whenever I travel for Living Roots, I am reminded that tea is never just something we drink. Tea is a relationship. It is a connection to land, history, craft, and the people whose lives are intertwined with each leaf. My visit to Uji, Japan felt like stepping into the center of Japanese tea culture. It transformed the way I view matcha and hojicha and deepened my appreciation for the artisans who dedicate their lives to this tradition.

Uji is often referred to as the birthplace of Japanese green tea. Before this trip, that phrase felt poetic. Now it feels literal. Everywhere I walked, I sensed the presence of centuries of tea cultivation. The hills are shaped by it. The streets revolve around it. Families have devoted generations to perfecting it. I came to visit the Kanbayashi Shunsho tea shop, where we source our Uji teas, and I left with a renewed sense of connection to a living cultural heritage.

A First Glimpse of Uji’s Living Heritage

When I first arrived in Uji, I was struck by how serene and green the entire town felt. Wooden houses lined narrow streets. The Uji River moved quietly through town, carrying mist that cooled the air. Shrines, bridges, and small tea shops blended seamlessly into the natural scenery.

My first stop was the Kanbayashi Shunsho tea shop, one of the oldest tea houses in Uji. This shop has been run by the same family for fifteen generations. Fifteen generations devoted to tea. The moment I stepped inside, I felt the weight of their history. Old wooden beams, antique tools, and traditional grinders stood on display, not as relics, but as beloved instruments still used today.

The staff shared stories about how the family provided tea to nobility, and how their methods remain unchanged is what makes Uji tea world famous. All of their teas are made from nearby farms. On one of these farms, I saw long rows of tea bushes covered with woven shade cloth. The farmer lifted the cloth so I could see underneath. It felt like entering a hidden sanctuary.

Shading the plants reduces sunlight exposure, forcing them to produce more chlorophyll and L theanine. These compounds give ceremonial matcha its deep green color, its umami, and its signature sweetness. I had read about this many times, but seeing it in person helped me finally connect the science with the artistry behind it.

“This is where matcha begins,” the farmer said. It was a simple statement with enormous truth.

Learning the Art of Leaf Selection

At Kanbayashi, I participated in a hands on lesson about leaf selection. The farmers laid out freshly picked tencha leaves across a wooden table. They arranged them by size, maturity, flush, and shape. Even after years of sourcing tea, I realized I was about to learn something deeper.

“Choose the best leaves,” they told me.

I picked what looked like the softest. The farmer nodded and then gently pointed to even smaller, more delicate leaves.

“These are true first flush,” he explained. “The first growth of spring carries the nutrients stored through winter. This is why first flush is so valuable. The flavor is richer, sweeter, and more concentrated.”

He showed me how tiny variations in thickness or slight imperfections could affect the final matcha texture. Once stone milled, every detail becomes amplified. This was when I realized how much intention leaf selection requires. It is not just sorting leaves. It is learning to see with sensitivity and patience.

Inside the Matcha Making Process

Inside the processing facility, a soft, creamy scent filled the air. Fresh leaves were steamed to stop oxidation and preserve their color. They were dried, sorted, and stripped of stems and veins to form pure tencha.

Then came the stone milling room. Traditional granite mills rotated in steady rhythm. Each mill produced only a small amount of matcha per hour because speed generates heat and heat destroys flavor. Watching the mills turn felt like witnessing the heartbeat of Uji tea production.

They whisked a bowl of freshly milled matcha for me. The color was the most vibrant green I had ever seen. The taste was layered, smooth, sweet, and completely free of bitterness. It was matcha as it was meant to be experienced.

Discovering the Warmth of Hojicha

After immersing myself in matcha, I turned my attention to hojicha. Although it is less internationally famous than matcha, hojicha is loved in Uji. At Kaminbayashi, I watched a tea master roast bancha leaves in a wide pan over high heat. The leaves shifted from green to rich brown, releasing a warm aroma that reminded me of caramel and toasted grains.

“Matcha shows elegance. Hojicha shows warmth,” the tea master said. “Warmth is harder to perfect than people assume.”

We tasted the freshly roasted hojicha together. It had a naturally sweet, smooth flavor with almost no bitterness. I understood immediately why locals drink it all day, even late at night. It brought a gentle, peaceful feeling that matched the rhythm of Uji itself.

A Walk Down Byodo-in Omotesando

One of my favorite experiences came when I wandered down Byodo in Omotesando, the historic tea street leading toward the Byodo in Temple. The street was alive with tea culture. Matcha soft serve shops filled the air with sweetness. Roasted tea vendors sent warm aromas drifting through the walkway. Small craft stores displayed handmade ceramics alongside traditional sweets.

My first stop was Ito Kyuemon. This shop is beloved for its matcha sweets, refined teas, and beautifully designed packaging. I tasted their matcha financier cakes and soft serve, which were rich and pure with a flavor that could only exist in Uji. Their high grade matcha was clean, sweet, and unforgettable.

A little farther down the street, I stepped into Tsuen Tea, one of Japan’s oldest tea shops, operating since the 12th century. The moment I entered, I felt the weight of nearly eight hundred years of tea history in the polished wooden counters, framed calligraphy, and beautifully worn tea utensils on display. The shop was quiet but full of life, with locals coming in to buy their usual hojicha or sencha while travelers like me browsed the shelves with reverence.

A friendly staff member brewed a small tasting set for me, beginning with their silky, mellow matcha and ending with a comforting cup of roasted hojicha. As we talked, she shared stories about how the shop has been run by generations of tea masters, each inheriting responsibility not only for quality but for preserving the craft. She explained how shading techniques, stone-grinding styles, and even the shape of the tea jars have been passed down through the family, unchanged and protected, which is why Tsuen’s tea still carries the depth and clarity Uji is known for.

Standing there sipping tea in a shop that predates samurai rule was humbling. It reminded me that Uji tea is not just a product. It is the result of traditions maintained with discipline, humility, and a deep respect for the land.

Visiting the Chazuna Tea Museum

A highlight of my visit was exploring the Chazuna Tea Museum, located near the Uji River. The museum offered a beautifully curated journey through the long history of tea production in Uji, beginning in the Edo period. Exhibits showed how tea cultivation shaped the town, how shading and tencha processing evolved, and how Uji became the standard for high quality matcha.

Interactive displays allowed me to see old tools, sample different aromas, and even try my hand at traditional tea sorting techniques. The museum also showcased stories of the families behind Uji tea, many of whom continue their craft today, including the Kaminbayashi and Kanbayashi families. Learning how these traditions survived political changes, cultural shifts, and modern pressures made me appreciate each cup of tea on an entirely new level.

Leaving the museum, I felt connected not only to the farmers I had met, but to the generations who came before them.

What Makes Uji Truly Special

After days of farm visits, tea tastings, museum tours, and conversations with artisans, I understood what makes Uji truly remarkable. It is not only the climate or soil. It is the devotion of the people. The families who shade their fields with care. The artisans who roast leaves with intuition. The stone mill operators who never rush the process.

Uji is a place where tea is protected, cultivated, and honored.

On my final morning, I stood on the bridge overlooking the Uji River with a warm bowl of matcha. The water flowed quietly beneath me. I felt grateful for the opportunity to witness this world firsthand and to bring a piece of it home through the teas we share at Living Roots.

Every leaf carries a story. A story of the Kaminbayashi family. A story of Uji’s historic tea houses. A story of centuries old traditions kept alive with pride. I am honored to pass these stories on to you.

Tea is more than flavor. It is history, culture, and connection. And Uji reminded me why I fell in love with this world in the first place.